I moved to the Upper Valley four years ago. One of the first things I did was search for a running club. I learned about the White Mountains mostly through fellow runners: hiking the 48 4,000 footers, staying in AMC huts, and the iconic Presidential Traverse. I told myself that the first time I summited Mt. Washington, I would do so on foot. I came close last year in 2024, but when I reached the Hermit Lodge, there were reports of winds approaching 70 MPH. I decided to take a detour up Boot Spur Link trail, and loop back down to Pinkham Notch. The steep rocky scramble, that is characteristic of the Whites, was more than I bargained for. It humbled me, as the mountains always do, and it would be a while before I ventured back out.
This summer, I waited for a good, reliable stretch of weather. The stars aligned the first weekend of August. I had already hiked to the base of Tuckerman Ravine three times, twice in spring when there was snow, and I craved a new route. I settled on the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trailhead as a starting point. It’s a full 30 minutes closer than Pinkham Notch and would allow me to hike a loop down Jewell Trail. I could also tag Mt. Monroe while I am up there.
I left about 6 am to be sure I could get a parking spot at the trailhead. I arrived about 7:30 and was happy to be able to park in one of the last few remaining spaces. The hike up was mostly uneventful. A nice steady climb with do-able small scrambles: just enough fellow hikers to feel the safety of others within range and still enjoy the quiet of nature for the majority of the walk.
Reaching the AMC Lake of the Clouds hut felt great. I love these wooden cabins nestled in the mountains. Log books dating back 50 years, clean running water to refresh empty bottles, and any additional safety or nutritional items you might have forgotten. I stopped to polish off my 1L bottle, re-fill, then head up to Monroe.
Summiting Monroe was the highlight of the trip. Knowing that Mt. Washington is a major tourist attraction accessible by car, motorcycle and train, I lingered here to savor the sights … and the quiet.
I could see the little lake that gives the AMC hut its name. Then spotted the tiny cog train far out in the distance chugging up the mountain. Like a kid, I wanted to yell and point, “There’s the cog train!” I thought better of it. Kept my mouth shut and took a panoramic video instead.
I did the short, quick walk back down to the hut to refill my water before heading on up to the Washington summit. In retrospect, it was a short, easy hike along stones that lined the path from the hut to the summit. The weather station was the first landmark to come into view as the satellites took on a larger-than-life look. The crowds, as promised, were out. I saw a line to take a picture next to the summit sign. I stood there for about 2 seconds, before I decided to go find a spot for lunch instead. I saw the sign was double-sided and there was a rocky section opposite the line that more closely resembled the hike I had just completed. I snapped a picture before going on my way.
I was actually feeling energized around noon, and asked how far it would be to walk the rest of the Presidential Range. I quickly found out this would not be an option. I made my way down Jewell Trail which gave my legs enough of a workout.
Got home feeling good about finally accomplishing this goal. Sunday would indeed be a rest day and I ventured out late that afternoon for my first solo overnight camping trip.
Meet the Kinsmans!
The original plan was to knock out the 4 highest peaks of the Northern Presidential range over the course of the first 3 days of August. I had already completed Madison a couple years ago. Sunday would be my rest day. I’d overnight camp Sunday night, then complete Jefferson and Adams on Monday. I re-assessed my plan mid-way through. Knowing the steep, long rocky climb ahead of me, I decided to be kind to my legs and do something more manageable. I am all about longevity with nothing to prove but stamina. I want to be doing sports until I’m 90, give or take a few years.
I had attempted the Kinsmans before with my dog. He did great, but it was May and there was still some frozen snow. With the leash, the icy scrambles, and the hiker who needed to be rescued, I decided to turn around with him after our lunch break at Kinsman Pond Shelter. This time, I went without him and reserved a camp site at Lafayette Place Campground.
I was very excited to use my Coleman two-burners stove and my one-person tent. I arrived around 7:15 pm. Enough time to get settled in before sunset then nestle in with my sleeping bag, headlamp and a good book. There were some fireworks around 10 pm, and the sound of motorcycles humming along the Franconia Notch highway; other than that, a peaceful night. Morning went smoothly.
The hike was much easier without Thatcher. I recall all the rocky scrambles, and they were easier without worrying about him. The peaks did not have a signpost. I triple checked to make sure I was hitting both North and South Kinsman. I checked for the geodesic stone, the cairn, with other hikers, and my GPS (luckily got signal up there). N and S Kinsman – check and check! I have now done 13 of the 48 4,000 footers. I look forward to getting to know the Whites this fall! And by the way, I first met them 30 years ago!
My First-Year Trip at Dartmouth College